Flat tip screwdriver
Pliers
Wire cutters
Soldering iron, minimum 40W rating
your favorite solder
you may find a desoldering tool or desoldering braid useful
2 - MagneQuest for Bottlehead BH-5 parafeed output transformers - order from MagneQuest
2 - MagneQuest for Bottlehead BH-6 plate loading chokes - order from MagneQuest
2 - 10uF 450VDC rated film capacitors
2 - 0.1uF 450VDC rated film capacitors
5ft. red Teflon insulated wire
2ft. black Teflon insulated wire
6" tinned buss wire
8 - #8-32 x 3/8" screws
8 - #8-32 nuts
4 - #8 solder tabs
4 - #8 lock washers
16 - #8 shoulder washers
4 - nylon ties
the non-MagneQuest parts listed above may be ordered together in an installation kit at the Paramour II web page
Begin by unplugging the amplifier (duh!) and removing the tubes. Then remove the black 3.3uF parafeed coupling capacitor from T1U and T6U and the brown 0.1 uF interstage coupling capacitor from 7U and 9U.
Power supply resistor removal
Remove the 270 ohm 5W power resistor from terminal P5 and P11.
Stock output transformer disconnection
Clip the nylon ties that bundle the cables near the B socket (9-pin socket)
Desolder the yellow wire from terminal 6L and the black primary wire from terminal 12L. Desolder the black and white secondary wires from the black and red binding posts. Remove the stock SPECO output transformer and mounting hardware (which will not be reused). Clip the #6 solder lug from the ground wire that was attached to the Speco transformer.
Old plate choke removal
Desolder the black plate choke leads from terminals 1L and 11L. Remove the C7X plate choke from it's mounting, and tape the remaining screws and shoulder washers to the top plate so they stay in place as shown above. Be sure to reserve all of the mounting hardware. In a few more steps the C-7X choke will mount instead on the holes behind the power transformer.
New BH-6 plate choke installation
Install the new plate choke with the solder tabs facing inboard on the old plate choke mounting holes, using the mounting hardware you have saved from the old C-7X plate choke. Be sure to attach the drain wire and solder tab as shown.
Cut and strip back 1/4" at each end an 8-1/2" length of red Teflon insulated wire. Solder one end to the plate choke terminal without a dot. Solder the other end to terminal 11L.
Cut and strip back 1/4" at each end a 4-1/2" length of red Teflon insulated wire. Solder one end to the plate choke terminal with a dot. Solder the other end to terminal 1L. Route the wires as shown above.
Old plate choke installation as new filter choke
Using the same process as used with the other chokes, use #8 fiber shoulder washers and #8 screws, taped from the top side of the chassis, to mount the C-7X choke in the holes behind the power transformer. The C-7X will fit over the innermost pair of hole cutouts. Secure the end of the filter choke near the binding posts with a #8 lock washer and #8 nut.
Cut a 1/2" length of buss wire and solder a #8 solder tab to one end. Use this solder tab with a #8 nut to secure the end of the filter choke near the IEC power entry socket. Wrap the free end of the buss wire around the chassis safety ground tab near the IEC socket, and solder as shown above.
Twist the black wires coming from the filter choke twice. Solder the end of the shorter black wire to terminal P5U, being careful not to melt the filter capacitor cover with the soldering iron. Cut to length if necessary and solder the longer black wire to terminal P11L.
NOTE: If you have converted your Paramour II to use 45 tubes you will need to solder a 1300 ohm resistor in series with the new filter choke and add a 47uF capacitor to maintain the proper B+ supply voltage. Call us at 360-697-1936 and we will send you these components free of charge. Installation: put the 47uF capacitor with negative to P8, positive to P9. The 1300 ohm resistor then goes P9 to P11, and a new black wire goes P8 to P10. The the new filter choke (ex-plate choke) goes one lead to P5 and the other lead to P9 (instead of P11). The red wire from P11 to terminal 11 remains unchanged.
New BH-5 parafeed output transformer installation
Install the new output transformer where the old transformer was installed, but using the larger outer pair of mounting holes in the chassis. Use #8 hardware and follow the typical installation procedure with #8 fiber shoulder washers top and bottom, #8-32 x 3/8 screws, nuts and lock washer/solder tab. You clipped the original #6 solder tab off the ground wire. Now you will solder a #8 solder tab in its place and use it on the end of the transformer near the binding posts, as shown above.
Cut and strip 1/4" at both ends a 5-1/2" length of black Teflon insulated wire. Solder one end to the tab labeled GROUND on the transformer and the other end to the black (outboard) binding post.
Cut and strip 1/4" at both ends a 7-1/2" length of red Teflon insulated wire. Solder one end to the tab labeled 9W or 15W (to match the impedance of you speakers) on the transformer and the other end to the red (inboard) binding post.
On the primary side of the output transformer one terminal is labeled PLATE and the other is labeled AC GROUND. Cut and strip back 1/4" at both ends a 6-1/2" length of red Teflon insulated wire. Solder one end to the transformer terminal labeled PLATE and solder the other end to terminal 6L. Route the wire as shown in the photo.
Cut and strip back 1/4" at both ends a 5" length of black Teflon insulated wire. Solder one end to the transformer terminal labeled AC GROUND and solder the other end to terminal 12L. Route the wire as shown in the photo, twisting it around the red wire you just installed until they go in opposite directions. Neaten up the wire bundle with a couple of nylon ties.
New coupling capacitor installation
Parafeed coupling capacitor installation
Cut the leads of the 0.1uF film cap to 1-1/2" and strip the ends 1/4". Solder one lead to terminal 7U, the other lead to terminal 9U.
Solder one lead of the 10uF film capacitor to terminal 1U and the other lead to terminal 6U. Make sure that the capacitor does not touch the rectangular white 22W resistors.
You are done. Carefully inspect your solder joints for continuity and structural integrity. This is made more important by the fact that you have retrofit parts on existing connections. Make sure nothing came loose that wasn't supposed to. Insert your tubes, and recheck the resistance and voltage readings against the figures in the Paramour II assembly manual, heeding the safety instructions. The numbers should remain unchanged. Hook it up and enjoy.