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Author Topic: Canadian Crack!  (Read 2313 times)
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Paul Joppa
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« Reply #15 on: November 30, 2011, 10:47:06 PM »

The Crack has a 6.3v winding. The 12AU7 is configured for 6.3v, and the 6080/6AS7 has a 6.3v heater. No other voltage is available.
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Paul Joppa
TonyMc
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« Reply #16 on: December 01, 2011, 08:02:41 AM »

  .  .  .   No.  That adapter works perfectly as is.  I used one for a couple of months.  No rewiring required.

Am I getting this straight.  You are starting with a 12.6V tube and want to convert to a 6.3V tube?  If so does it take the 12.6V and drop it with a resistor?

According to the data sheet the 6sn7 has a 6.3v heater also. Time to place an order.
Thanks for the adaptor link Lar Wink
« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 08:04:54 AM by TonyMc » Logged
Grainger49
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« Reply #17 on: December 01, 2011, 08:48:48 AM »

Tony,

That doesn't really answer my question.  If the converter relies on a folded heater configuration, 6.3V wiring of a 12.6V heater, it will only work for these instances.  

Most Bottlehead kits are like this.  The original Foreplay used 12.6V heater wiring, I don't remember another, and still could be wrong since I haven't built them all.  

For instance there were many kits and production tube amps/preamps that, like my PAS-3X, had a 25V supply and put two tube heaters in series at ~12.5V each.  In this case an adapter would be hard to use.

Edit:  I have already taken too much space in someone else's thread but wanted to add this to this post.  Since there is nothing in the auction about the heater wiring I contacted the seller.  It turns out I was watching the same auction for another purpose.  I asked the seller about adjusting the heater voltage since putting 12.6V on a 6SN7 would burn the heater open and ruin the tube.  Here is his answer:

Dear Valued customer Grainger,

please kindly note the adaptor will not change voltage , the original voltage can only be 6.3V or parallel connection 6.3v , it cannot be used for 12.6 V

Best regards
Ricky


This is to say that in any Bottlehead equipment that already has a 12.6V tube wired to work with a 6.3V heater you can make this substitution with the linked adapter.  But don't use it in a 12.6V wired socket in other equipment.
« Last Edit: December 04, 2011, 11:54:50 AM by Grainger49 » Logged

Grainger Morrison,

Mozzie quote: Sacred cows make the best hamburgers!

Remember, YOU are the only one who needs to be happy with the sound of your system.

Eros (Mods Have Begun!)/FP-2/Paramour 1/upgrades to all - PS Audio Regenerator, Triangle Zerius Speakers, BA Sub
Paul Joppa
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« Reply #18 on: December 01, 2011, 09:59:16 AM »

Good point, Grainger. The Stereomour also has a 12-v heater winding and the 12AT7 is run on that supply.
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Paul Joppa
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« Reply #19 on: December 01, 2011, 10:15:29 AM »

Tony,

That doesn't really answer my question.  If the converter relies on a folded, 6.3V wiring of a 12.6V heater it will only work for these instances. 

Most Bottlehead kits are like this.  The original Foreplay used 12.6V heater wiring, I don't remember another, and still could be wrong since I haven't built them all. 

For instance there were many kits and production tube amps and preamps that like my PAS-3X had a 25V supply and put two tube heaters in series at ~12.5V each.  In this case an adapter would be hard to use.

Hi Grainger.
Sent you a PM Smiley
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Laudanum
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« Reply #20 on: December 01, 2011, 01:09:11 PM »

Just to make myself clear ... I was responding solely based on my experience using the adapter with Crack (6.3V on the 12AU7 heater).
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Desmond G.
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« Reply #21 on: December 02, 2011, 11:54:23 PM »

I've been considering an old school blue pilot light but hesitate because of the size of the thing. This blue LED you have may be perfect. Small and matches the rest of my gear.

If you don't mind, whats the source & part#?!!!

PS..I got the same adapter, not sure if I prefer 6sn7's over my euro 12au7's...should probably try some others...mine is a ratheon 1954 w/ T-Plates and a really cool naval anchor label. Nice detail but somewhat limited texturally...for lack of a better word.

Cheers
« Last Edit: December 03, 2011, 01:35:27 AM by jrihs » Logged

John Rihs
Lar
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« Reply #22 on: December 04, 2011, 11:32:47 AM »

I picked up that led at a local electronics shop here, the guy had a bag full of different colour 12 volt led`s, the base mounted first and then the led slipped in threw a plastic insert from the bottom, sorry no parts #, here is a pic of the base.


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Larry V
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« Reply #23 on: December 05, 2011, 07:25:14 PM »

Thanks!
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John Rihs
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« Reply #24 on: February 05, 2012, 02:36:00 PM »

Hey there!

is any improvement in sound quality in using this adapter? I mean if I use a better tube? or is only look? By the way! look cool.
Thanks,
Yashin
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Lar
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« Reply #25 on: February 05, 2012, 02:50:32 PM »

To be perfectly honest, i don`t give a rats behind what it looks like. I am only interested in what type of sound it puts out. Different tubes give you different flavour, a better tube? Well that is in the ear of the beholder, try different tubes and see what you enjoy the most.
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Larry V
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« Reply #26 on: February 05, 2012, 07:32:01 PM »

Great Job Lar, I like how you got the choke to fit. Glad your liking the sound, it will only get better!

Cheers,
Shawn
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Shawn Prigmore
Lar
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« Reply #27 on: February 05, 2012, 08:44:24 PM »

Great Job Lar, I like how you got the choke to fit. Glad your liking the sound, it will only get better!

Cheers,
Shawn
Yea thanks to advice from you, and your right, it just keeps getting better, i`m planning on more work on the caps and some bypassing, all fun stufff.
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Larry V
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« Reply #28 on: February 08, 2012, 03:52:26 PM »

Replaced last power cap with Mundorf MKP - 220 -uF 250 - v Bypass output caps with Mundorf 1.0 uF 250 v as well Kiwame resistor.


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Larry V
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« Reply #29 on: February 08, 2012, 04:29:11 PM »

Color me impressed with that tight squeeze. So how does it sound?
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Brad Nalitt
Iron Upgraded S.E.X. Amp
Full Shuntreg 2A3 Paramounts
Foreplay III
Extended Foreplay III
Crack W/Speedball
S.E.X.y Speakers W/FT17H Horn Tweeters
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