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Author Topic: how do you dry your vinyl after cleaning?  (Read 608 times)
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denti alligator
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« on: December 10, 2011, 10:25:38 AM »

So I've got the Spin Clean and have been meaning to use it forever, but a) I want to do a bunch of records at once to maximize the solution and b) I don't know how best to dry them.

Yes, it comes with drying cloths, but these apparently don't completely dry the vinyl, which is supposed to air dry. One reviewer said up to 24 hours is ideal. My problem is that my house is full of dust and pet hair and leaving freshly cleaned vinyl out to dry is out of the question. Ideas?

I could use one room and clean it as best as possible first, but then where do I set the vinyl to dry?
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- Sam

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Brillo
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« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2011, 11:01:48 AM »

I use a cheapo dish drying rack from Target. It takes about 10-15 minutes for the records to dry to a point where a lint-free towel will mop up the remaining drops. A full rack holds about 25 records - as many as you'll want to clean in one batch.  Be sure to use distilled water.  Use a decent carbon brush before playing. Good to go.
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Chris Loncharich
denti alligator
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« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2011, 11:18:53 AM »

Good advice. Thanks.
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- Sam

"Life without music would be a mistake." - Friedrich Nietzsche

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Grainger49
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« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2011, 12:54:51 PM »

I have collected our old towels for years.  I don't use them on my LPs, I use a VIP 16.5, but I use them on my cars.  We buy 100% cotton towels so they are very absorbent.  I could be using these to safely dry my LPs if I were using the spin clean.

Do you have some old cotton towels?
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Grainger Morrison,

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Remember, YOU are the only one who needs to be happy with the sound of your system.

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Paully
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« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2011, 03:45:22 PM »

Could dry them off the best that you can and then stick them in the dishwasher and close the door to keep pet and dust exposure to a minimum.
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ironbut
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« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2012, 08:59:10 AM »

I do the same as Paully and I have a 'fridge' magnet that I attach to the door handle so my room mate doesn't try to load the dishwasher.
To do the initial drying, I use one of the "green" t-paper that I pick up from Safeway. Maybe it's the way that it's reprocessed, but I'll be damned if I can even get a speck of lint off the stuff.
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steve koto
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« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2012, 09:11:10 AM »

I have a Nitty Gritty RCM which does a spiffy job drying.

BUT I pick up a pack of these microfiber cloths when I drop in at Harbor Freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-microfiber-cleaning-cloths-68440.html  

Look for sales when they go for about half price.

When I have a used LP that seems to need a real deep clean I use a pair Disc Doctor brushes, MoFi Super Deep, distilled water rinse and these cloths between steps. The color coding helps keep straight which cloths I used after the Super Deep and which after rinse.  

They suck up water nicely and don't throw any lint I see.  I rinse 'em in tap water and air dry after use.  
« Last Edit: March 26, 2012, 11:52:45 AM by Wanderer » Logged

Kevin R-M
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« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2012, 09:15:21 AM »

After making that last post, I started wondering about the pH levels of tp. I started searching around and couldn't help having a little chuckle over stuff like "TP World blog" etc.. I really wasn't finding what I was looking for anyway (which is "are high/low pH levels something that is avoided when manufacturing toilet paper?").
Then it came to me,.. Kimberly-Clarke!
I think there's someone on this very forum who could have access to the real poop regarding tp manufacture.
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steve koto
Roger
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« Reply #8 on: March 26, 2012, 09:42:08 AM »

I have never tried the spin-clean, but use a German made Hannl Limited vacuum cleaner (I live in Europe). I have a question: Isn't the whole point with the cleaners to suck up all the dust and dirt after the cleaning. Will the records be cleaned properly without the vacuum?
Roger
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Roger
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Grainger49
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« Reply #9 on: March 26, 2012, 10:26:30 AM »

Steve,

Guilty, I worked for Kimberly-Clark for 15 years.  I only had a few jobs around paper machines, my main work was with Non-Woven Materials.  That is Surgeons' Gowns and other disposable products like that.

But in 1990 I helped build and startup a pair of paper machines that made toilet paper and washroom hand towels.  TP is not acidic; consider where it is used.  It is close to neutral.  TP and Kleenex (a K-C trademark) are quite different, not in Ph but in wet strength.  TP has much lower wet strength than Kleenex.  The problem will be how much pulp will come off when drying.  Kleenex is better for drying and leaving less "lent."  Neither are as good as vacuum drying or good cotton towel drying.

To Roger,

I think the spin clean is supposed to brush the LP and leave the dirt etc. in the fluid at the bottom.  I use a 16.5.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2012, 04:45:54 PM by Grainger49 » Logged

Grainger Morrison,

Mozzie quote: Sacred cows make the best hamburgers!

Remember, YOU are the only one who needs to be happy with the sound of your system.

Eros (Mods Have Begun!)/FP-2/Paramour 1/upgrades to all - PS Audio Regenerator, Triangle Zerius Speakers, BA Sub
Wanderer
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« Reply #10 on: March 26, 2012, 12:17:48 PM »

Isn't the whole point with the cleaners to suck up all the dust and dirt after the cleaning. Will the records be cleaned properly without the vacuum?

There seem to be competing theories of record cleaning.

The Disc Doctor site suggests that the brushes lift the contaminated fluid off the LP without the vacuum before drying (..but using a RCM is okay too).
http://www.discdoc.com/p14.html

The Gem Dandy by George Merrill is designed to blast the dirt off the grooves with water pressure.
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/gem/dandy.html    

Spin Clean claims: "This special formula encapsulates the dirt that comes off the record and sinks it to the bottom of the washer basin so it is not re-deposited back on to your valuable records. Why is Spin-Clean Bright Yellow? We chose bright yellow for the color of the Spin-Clean so you can see the dirt collecting at the bottom of the unit." from http://www.spincleanrecordwasher.com/about.html
 

..and of course the now traditonal RCM units that vacuum the fluid off.  

Damned if I know, but I like my bottom of the line Nitty Gritty. It got all the glop out of my LPs that was added there by DishWasher D3 and the mildew from damp Cecil Watts Parastats and "Humid Mops" of yore.

Disc Doctor brushes do seem to work magic on the truly filthy LPs that Nitty Gritty alone won't get. However, Nitty Gritty dries after final rinse 'round here no matter what.

  
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Kevin R-M
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« Reply #11 on: March 26, 2012, 01:02:47 PM »

Kevin,

Please excuse me for throwing a monkey wrench into this.  If the DD pads remove the dirt from an LP do you need to clean them between sides?
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Grainger Morrison,

Mozzie quote: Sacred cows make the best hamburgers!

Remember, YOU are the only one who needs to be happy with the sound of your system.

Eros (Mods Have Begun!)/FP-2/Paramour 1/upgrades to all - PS Audio Regenerator, Triangle Zerius Speakers, BA Sub
matthewmckay
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« Reply #12 on: March 26, 2012, 04:15:56 PM »

I use a spin clean setup as well...

If you pull the record out of the solution, but leave enough between the pads so that it can drip dry for a minute or two, you can dry about 5X as many records before the drying cloth becomes saturated.  I have found that using a metal coat hangar stuck partway into a dresser drawer makes a nice substitute for a drying rack.  I usually wash one record, move it to the hangar, wash a second and let it drip dry in the spin clean.  By the time I finish drying the record that is on the hangar, the one in the spin clean is ready to dry. I have not found a need for additional drying space.

This is a very slow process and I gaurantee you will only be able to clean about 30 before you get tired of doing it...
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Wanderer
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« Reply #13 on: March 26, 2012, 05:48:24 PM »

Kevin,

Please excuse me for throwing a monkey wrench into this.  If the DD pads remove the dirt from an LP do you need to clean them between sides?

Thowing wrenches is fun - good question.  

According to the web site:
"Remove residual Cleaner from the brush by gently squeegeeing the upper pile of the pad with the handle of a cleaned nylon toothbrush or your index finger, cleaned & degreased with a little Cleaner."

AND...

 "At the end of your cleaning session, rinse the brush pad 2-3 times with fresh distilled water. Saturate the pad with distilled water then remove a portion of the fluid with a gentle squeegee-like action using either a cleaner index finger or the cleaned handle of a nylon tooth brush. Repeat 2-3 times. Finally shake brush strongly 1 time to remove excess water then place brush with pad facing up & allow to air dry."

Pretty much what I do, seems to work. The LPs get a ride on the Nitty Gritty to end up.

I have never tried doing more then 4 to 8 LPs at a session. Might see some contaminated brush pad issues, assuming they happen, if I ran a dozen or more LPs at a rip,...maybe.  

Oh, and I run stuff on the Nitty Gritty first, try a play and only if I think the LP sounds like a deeper clean might help then I set it aside for a Disc Doctor brush session. Once I have a few Discs in the "skunk" pile I do a session. So the Nitty Gritty has already eaten the grottiest particulates.        
 
« Last Edit: March 26, 2012, 05:51:54 PM by Wanderer » Logged

Kevin R-M
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« Reply #14 on: March 26, 2012, 11:18:31 PM »

On my VPI rcm I use a different suction tube for each step, I also use the Disc Doctor felt on the tubes(blue color). I have found it does a better job and lasts longer than the stock VPI felt. I use a squeeze bottle filled with reagent grade DI water to rinse the felt of each tube after suction. I know, anal as heck and time consuming but it yields extremely clean records.

Cheers,
Shawn
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Shawn Prigmore
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