screwdriver with #2 square driver or #2 Phillips bit
rubber mallet or hammer and block of soft wood
wood glue, preferably Titebond
10mm wrench
optional - spray adhesive, clear 5 minute epoxy
sides are interchangeable, top and bottom are interchangeable, planar braces are interchangeable
You may wish to dry fit the cabinet panels together before doing the actual assembly. The cabinets are easily test assembled by inserting the dowels in all the dowel holes and putting the panels together without any cams, threaded posts or glue. Use a rubber mallet or hammer and block of wood to tap panels together without damaging the finish.
Install threaded posts into the four smallest holes on the center inside face of each side panel. The posts may be inserted with a #2 square drive bit, or a #2 Phillips bit, using a manual screwdriver or a power screwdriver. If using a power screwdriver be sure to set the clutch at the lightest setting to avoid damaging the outside of the panel by over-torqueing the post.
Insert dowels into the center holes of the two opposing edges of each internal planar brace that have two post and cam holes as well. Gently use a rubber mallet or use a wood block to cushion the tapping of a metal hammer if the dowels do not insert with hand pressure. DO NOT USE GLUE ON THE DOWELS, as the hydraulic pressure created by the seal of the glue covered dowel being forced into a hole can damage the external finish.
Insert cams into the holes on the edges of the planar braces that have been doweled, with the arrow pointing toward the hole for the threaded post. Run a 1/8" wide bead of a quality wood glue (Titebond is preferred) along one doweled edge of each brace.
Install the braces on one side panel with the cam holes facing toward the top of the cabinet, and tighten the cams with the provided Allen wrench. The cams turn through about 180 degrees.
Run a 1/8" bead of glue on the opposite edge of the planar braces, insert cams, and install the second side panel in a similar fashion.
Install four threaded posts in the proper holes in the top and bottom panels. Run a 1/8" bead of glue along the INSIDE edge of the top raw ends of each side panel, being sure to leave no gaps in the bead. Install the appropriate cams, and install the top panel. Be sure to wipe any excess glue that squeezes from the clamped edges onto the outside finish with a damp cloth. Any small amounts of excess will be hidden by the grooved joint when the glue dries. Do not remove the excess glue from the inside corners.
Repeat the procedure to install the bottom panel.
Decide which face of the assembly will be the back of the cabinet. Insert dowels into the holes in the edges of the side, top and bottom panels on that face of the cabinet assembly. The dowel holes are the ones that do not have a connecting cam hole - two dowels on the top, two on the bottom, and six on each side.
Install threaded posts on the inside face of the back panel - one for the top panel, one for each planar brace, one for the bottom panel and six for each side panel.
Run a 1/8" bead of glue along the inside of the raw edges of the cabinet assembly rear and across the planar braces making sure to leave no gaps in the bead. Insert the appropriate cams and install the back panel. Once again check for any excess glue on the exterior finish and remove it with a damp cloth. Run a narrow bead of glue along any point of an inside corner that doesn't show a slight fillet of glue, to assure and airtight seal around the back, sides, top and bottom.
Install the two black plastic ports provided in your drivers and parts kit into holes in the back panel, pushing them in from the outside. They are a press fit.
Remove the nuts and solder tabs from the binding posts supplied in your drivers and parts kit and install the four binding posts by inserting them from the outside. TIP - A small dab of clear 5 minute epoxy on the collar of the binding post will keep it from spinning loose when tightening speaker cable terminations to the post. Install one of the two nuts provided with each post onto the threaded portion inside the cabinet and tighten snugly.
Removing the knurled post from the binding post base and inserting a screwdriver shaft through the hole in the base will allow you to keep post from spinning while tightening the internal nut.
Cut the acoustical pad that is supplied with your drivers and parts kit using the following cutting plan:
Install the pads as follows:
The 9-3/4" x 29" pad goes in a "U" shape across the bottom and up each side of the bottom chamber.
The 15-1/4" x 27" pad goes around the sides and the back of the middle chamber. One may use spray adhesive to hold the padding close to the interior cabinet walls. If you do so, be sure to leave the forward edges unstuck, to allow access when you install the cams that secure the front baffle.
The 19" x 27" pad goes around the sides and the back of the top chamber, leaving a 1" gap at the top. Slide the three 9-3/4" x 3-1/4" pads back into the 1" gap to cover the inside of the top panel.
The front baffle installs the same way as the back. Insert dowels into the holes in the edges of the side, top and bottom panels of the cabinet assembly. The dowel holes are the ones that do not have a connecting cam hole - two dowels on the top, two on the bottom, and six on each side.
Install threaded posts on the inside face of the front baffle - one for the top panel, one for each planar brace, one for the bottom panel and six for each side panel.
Run a 1/8" bead of glue along the inside of the raw edges of the cabinet assembly rear and across the planar braces making sure to leave no gaps in the bead. Insert the appropriate cams and install the front baffle, making sure that all the cams are tightened. Once again check for any excess glue on the exterior finish and remove it with a damp cloth.
Assembled and ready for drivers